Radhakrishnan Swaminathan
A good Darshan requires planning and on the traffic free stretch between Perambalur and Tiruchirappalli on National Highway 45, you are wont to miss Siruvachur, home to the temple that houses the much revered and powerful Sri Madhura Kali Amman. A couple of flyovers on the highway almost tempt you to miss this. What will stop you is the almighty if it were wished so. The colourful welcome arch on the right (coming from Peramabalur side) is the only sign of the temple on the highway. The temple itself is tucked a short 3 kms into the arch. Some other distances: 50 kms from Tiruchy on NH4 to Perambalur (9 Kms before Perambalur), 128 kms from Salem, 260 Kms from Chennai airport, 327 kms from Bangalore City.
Be prepared for an experience that is often described as unique. Plan well for a good Darshan that the almighty will help you make happen. A spiritual, festival and a cultural experience that is one-of-a-kind. For many families, this is also a ‘Kula Dheivam’ or ‘Family Deity’. So generations of families have come to this temple to pray and be blessed. Don’t be surprised to rub shoulders with families from Akron, Auckland, Austin, Canberra, Durban, London, New Brunswick, Palo Alto … Bangalore, Chandigarh, Nagpur, Ghaziabad, Raipur …. and Ambattur, Ammapattai, Athur, Denkanikottai, Kambarasampettai, Tuni, Thiruvarur and Srirangam. There is a heavy sprinkling of the local populace too. Seemingly off the beaten track, the temple at first glance hardly looks like having such a wide profile of devotees. Interestingly, it is said that Siruvachur Madhurakali Amman was also the Kula Dheivam of the Paramacharyal Sri Chandrasekharendra Saraswathi Swamigal or the Kanchi Periyavaal.
Temple Details: Some quick info about Arulmigu Madhura Kali Amman Thirukoil, the temple itself: Located at Siruvachur, Perambalur District 621113, Tamil Nadu, India Θ Moolavar: Madhura Kali Amman Θ Urchavamoorthi: Madhura Kali Θ Thala Virutcham: Marudham tree Θ Theertham: Tirukulam Θ Temple estimated to be 1000-2000 years old.
Goddess Sri Madhura Kali Amman , the presiding deity.
Temple Timings: Normally open: 6.30 am to 9 pm. On Monday, Friday and special occasions such as Maha Shivaratri, Tamil New Year, Chithirai Festival (13 days), Aadi Perukku, Temple Car Festival (Ther Vizha), Navarathiri (10 days), Karthigai Deepam, January 1, Pongal, all Ammavasai and Pournami days easily checked on a tamil calendar. Daily Abhishekam performed at 11 am. After Alangaram, Ucha Kala Pooja and Maha Deeparadhanai is performed at 1 pm and the grand Thangai Kavasam (More details about the temple towards the end).
A variety of pooja and offerings can be done at the temple for which the tickets are available at the counter. There are tickets for special entry as well. Be prepared for a huge crowd on all auspicious and festival days. While there is a semblance of crowd management, the scale of the crowd is still a test of stress management.
The good news for out-station travellers is that basic accommodation is available at the temple. Fairly clean when seen recently, some air-conditioned rooms are also available. Absence of electricity though, is something you may plan for! The temple also has a Wedding Hall that is fairly popular amongst the populace. The temple has benefited from slow, yet steady improvements in infrastructure. There is a paucity of quality accommodation, otherwise. The better idea, for most could be to stay at Tiruchirappalli. Local food may leave you feeling discomforted. So it may be a good idea to carry something with you. Or, better still wait till you get back to Trichy or Perambalur.
Just outside the accommodation. A mere 300m outside the temple.
For reaching out to temple authorities: For any other specific info, reach out at these numbers and (+91) 04328 225333, (+91) 04328 291375 or mail srimathurakaliamman@gmail.com to contact the Executive Officer, Temple Administration. The temple comes under HR & CE Department, Government of Tamil Nadu. The people at the temple are very helpful, though stressed when crowded.
My personal experience is … for those wishing to have a quick darshan of Sri Madhura Kali Amman (and do not have any pledges/ promises to redeem as Maa Vilakku etc), best time is early morning before 8 am, maybe stretching to 9 am. The crowds normally peter out after 2 pm. Evening post 7 pm is also a good time to take darshan. As poojas are being conducted during other times, you may not be allowed inside the sanctum sanctorum.
Quite often, we have planned to visit the temple, only to have the plan stymied by the fact that the temple is closed or we have to account for the Friday/Monday combination. Traveling from Bangalore, what it almost meant was that Monday got ruled out! So the options shrunk again. Finally, we decided that we would go, when we were called … and that was often as it turned out. During summer, it is more crowded. Hence, be extra-prepared because by the time the Abhiskekam is over and you complete your rounds, it could stretch to 2pm and beyond. You may be short on patience then… and pretty hungry too!
The beautiful temple is in a village surrounded by village deities, mounts, tanks and green fields during the monsoon season. The Chola King Kulothunga supposedly renovated the temple. Aiyanar is the guardian deity. The main deity is Sri Madhura Kali Amman. The deity is about 4 ft in height and is portrayed having weapons on her hands and an Akshayapatram. One leg is on the lion, the vehicle of Shakti. The Goddess is supposedly merciful indicated by the absence of any demon under her feet.
The temple also has a Sri Chakra installed and consecrated by Sri Sadasiva Brahmendra Swamigal in the sanctum sanctorum.
The main ‘offering’ that is auspicious to the Goddess is in the form of flour lamps lit and offered as a prayer commitment in the temple. The devotees consider an act of pure prayer – to literally pound the rice to make the flour and the lamp at the temple (Maa Vilakku). For this they bring rice, soak it in the water and pound it in the temple premises only. Ghee is added to prepare the paste for making the lamp. The lamps are then carried with great formality and placed before Sri Madhura Kali Amman. A special space for pounding the rice is marked. People are also available for hire to help prepare the flour. Devotees also offer Milk, Honey, Fruits and other fruits. Many devotees also redeem their pledges or take a pledge to do ‘Angapradakshanam’, literally rolling around the temple. Many do it multiple number of times.
There are a number of stories attributed to the temple that make up the legend of the temple.
The rustic feel just off NH4. The look of the lady may deceive you about her age.
One of the major legends has it that Kannagi, the pivotal player in Silappadikaram came to this place to control her anger and calm herself. She is also woven into the story as having come from Madurai and blessed by Kali.
It is also believed that Chelliamman (or, Selliamman), the deity of Siruvachur came under the control of a tantric who was using her for his evil doings. As it happened, Madurai Kaliamman happened to visit and sought space from Cheliiamman to stay overnight. Chelliamman then told her about her enslavement by the tantric. The furious Madurai Kaliamman then destroyed the tantric and rescued Chelliamman from her captivity. So impressed and surprised was Chelliamman by Madurai Kaliamman that she asked her to stay at Siruvachur and herself moved to Periaswami mount nearby with a caveat. The first respect or Mudal Mariyadai should be offered to her. This is absorbed as a ritual and can be seen in practice today during pujas, whereby the Arati is shown to the mount where Chelliamman stays. The pujas then continue in the temple. It is said that Madurai Kaliamman came here on Friday and granted darshan to her devotees on Monday. This is said to be the reason behind the temple being open for devotees on these two days. On other days, it is said that the deity stays with Chelliamman. In effect, it is believed that Madurai Kali Amman (Sri Madhura Kali Amman) guards the village with her two guards … Chelliamman and Karuppanna Swamy.
Most of the history is passed on from generation to generation and largely influenced by the kind of communication that may have happened. In the last century, some edicts have been found in Tiruchirappalli.
Another legend suggests that Lord Shiva’s consort, Goddess Parvati came down to destroy an asura Charukan and took the form of Kali. Charukan had been terrorising the people around the hills. After Charukan was destroyed, Lord Shiva appeared, calmed and blessed Goddess Paravathi. He also asked her to stay as the guardian of these people.
Then there is the legend is based on five rishis, who were performing penance in the hills. Each of them would take turns to perform the various rituals to Goddess Kali leaving out Monday and Friday. The Goddess appeared before each of them, very pleased with their prayers and blessed them. Immensely overjoyed, the rishis asked her to make a nearby Kumkumam tree her abode. Goddess Kali granted them the wish. As the prayers continued, one day, honey fell on their lips from a hive above the spot where they prayed to the goddess. This was seen as divine and the Goddess was then called Madhura Kaliamman with Madhura being the Divine Nectar. The hill not surprisingly became Madhira Malai.
Yet another legend relates to three Siddars who lived behind Madhira Malai on a bigger hill called Perumarudhamalai. The three found an abandoned child and took care of him. As he grew up, Boodhar, the boy became well versed and educated. The Siddars Notchindar, Nemindar and Sambu, who by now had completed their worldly duties transformed into honey bees. This was said to be a result of their previous Karma. They had in their previous birth stolen honey from a saint, who cursed them to be reborn as honey bees. The siddars as bees now made their beehive in the tree at Madhira Malai, making honey and feeding the rishis who came to pray to Goddess Kali at the hills. This absolved them of their past sins. Boodhar in the meanwhile came to pay his respect to the teachers. He then suddenly realised his true self and happily fell at the feet of Goddess Kali, who recognised him as an incarnation of Narada. Boodhar than requested all the Siddars to pray to Goddess Kali to get back their forms. Boodhar also asked the Goddess that he should always be enabled to devotedly think and pray to her. Goddess Kali then allowed him permission to pray and perform rituals to her on Monday and Friday, leaving the other days for the rishis. It is said that this is the reason for the current practise of pujas and rituals on Monday and Friday.
Another popular legend has Goddess Kali descending from the hills to the foothill, when the venerated Saint Adi Sankara was walking through the hills. As he prayed devoutly to the goddess, she appeared before him in the form of a spring to quench his thirst and then appeared to give him his darshan. As she showed her true form to Saint Adi Sankara and blessed him, she transformed to an idol. Saint Adi Sankara consecrated this idol which continues to be worshipped as Madhura Kali Amman.
An interesting side note relates to devotees and His Holiness Sri Paramacharya Kanchi Maha Periyava. In one of his interviews, he suggested that it may be better to renovate and take care of temples that already exist rather than build new ones. Inspired by this suggestion, the families of Sri Srinivasan and Sri Krishnamurthi who were devotees of Sri Madhura Kali Amman initiated a plan to improve the upkeep of the temple almost 40 years ago. The then temple administrator Mr.Murugan also played an important role in giving right inputs and helped channel the energies of the devout. Along with many other like minded families they formed an Mahabisheham Association that today, working closely with HR & CE department carries out activities for the betterment of the temple. This association also performs homam to Sri Madhura Kali Amman every year on the last friday of the tamil Thai maasam.
The Periyasami Malai mentioned earlier maybe a place to visit if you are inclined to walk. Keep in mind that only males are allowed to visit. The foot of the hill is about 4 kms from the temple. There are two temples in the hill. The first one has the deities of Selliamman, Laada Saami, Periyasami, Periya Kanni Ayya and Kinaththadi Ayya all as clay idols. The next temple is that of Aathadi Gurusaami, where the idols of 11 Siddars are present. Also near the temple are Naaga Kanni, Sengamala Aiya, Ponnu Aiya, Saptha Kanni, Seeri Muthaiya, Ariganda Aiya and Sirappuliyaan. Like in most villages, these are all located under a large number of trees. The Kamba Perumal temple nearby is seen to be auspicious during Purattasi Saturday and attracts devotees who throng in large numbers. By the way, keep an eye out for monkeys.
Some nearby temples are Sri Dhandayuthapani Temple and Sri Ekambareswarar Temple, both at Chettikulam, Perambalur. Check timings before you go to these temples.
Best wishes for a delightful Darshan.
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